Why open walls are the best moment to inspect

The moment before drywall goes up is your best chance to fix hidden problems. According to Greenworks Inspections, a pre-drywall check happens after framing and the electrical, plumbing, and HVAC rough-ins but before insulation and drywall. That timing makes the inspection critical because issues are far cheaper and easier to fix now than after walls are closed.

Buyers, builders, and warranty holders all benefit from a thorough pre-drywall review. Inspectors evaluate structural framing, moisture protection and flashing, electrical routing and box placement, plumbing layout and slopes, and HVAC ducting and vents so problems don't get buried. This post delivers a room-by-room, system-focused checklist to support phased inspections and protect your warranty. For a deeper look at multi-phase new-construction checks, see our guide on phased inspections: New-construction phase inspections and common staging issues

Close-up view of a single wall bay showing the full stack of pre-drywall elements: framing members, a flashed window opening, an electrical box with cables stapled, and a plumbing run with a pressure test cap and hose — composed to highlight how many trades share the same cavity and why inspection now matters.

Prove the hidden work: tests and photos to capture before drywall

Want a record you can use for warranty claims and trade accountability? Do a handful of non‑destructive tests and make a disciplined photo map before walls get closed.

We rely on pressure, visual, and continuity checks that find leaks, missing seals, and wiring issues without cutting anything open. Then we tie each finding to a photo and the blueprint so nothing is ambiguous later.

Non‑destructive tests that give real answers

For plumbing, perform hydrostatic or air pressure tests and monitor the gauge for drops during the hold period.

For DWV lines use lower pressure or a water head test. Use test caps, pressure gauges, and soapy water to expose leaks visually.

For electrical, check continuity and grounding with a multimeter before power is applied to confirm unbroken paths and proper bonding.

For insulation and air barriers, do a close visual sweep of laps, terminations, and penetrations to confirm continuous coverage and sealing.

Photographing, labeling, and building a usable deliverable

Take wide shots for context and close details for defects. Always include a labeled slate or tape showing room and wall orientation in the frame.

Photograph every wall, ceiling, and floor framing elevation so future reviewers can see stud spacing and header placement.
Capture electrical boxes, cable routing, and protector plates, showing holes where cables pass through framing.
Document water lines, cleanouts, gas piping, and HVAC penetrations with multiple angles if any defect exists.
Photograph insulation placement and air barrier laps, and include serial or model numbers for installed equipment when visible.

Organize images by room and wall orientation and cross‑reference filenames to the blueprint. That creates a photographic map builders and warranty reps can follow.

Include a short written summary of defects with photo references and recommended corrections.
Attach an annotated floor plan that lists image file numbers at each location.
Deliver a photo‑backed report that combines the summary, images, and blueprint references for clear action items.

These steps follow recommended pre‑drywall practice and make your inspection a defensible, useful record. For a local perspective on why this matters in Texas practice, see our field stories at What Home Inspectors Really Find in New Texas Homes.

A worktable-style scene used for pre-drywall documentation: a blurred blueprint underneath (no legible text) with printed defect photos clipped in place, a digital pressure gauge attached to a capped pipe, and a multimeter and probes laid beside an open electrical box — conveying disciplined testing and a photographic map without showing people.

Catch framing and foundation problems you can fix now

Open walls are the last clear view of the house's skeleton. Fixes now cost a fraction of what they do after drywall hides them.

We focus on studs, headers, joists, trusses, shear walls, fasteners, sill plates, anchor bolts, and post‑tension terminations. Verifying these items prevents sagging floors, cracked finishes, and safety issues.

Quick field checks to document defects

Use a consistent photo map and notes tied to the plan when you inspect. That makes repairs and warranty claims straightforward.

Measure stud spacing to confirm 16 or 24 inches on center and photograph any uneven or missing studs.
Verify header size and placement against the structural drawings and photograph undersized or improperly installed headers.
Inspect joists for sag, over‑notching, and moisture damage and note any bouncy or uneven floor areas.
Check roof trusses for missing or damaged connector plates, water stains, and unauthorized cuts, and photograph any issues.
Confirm shear wall sheathing alignment, correct nailing patterns, and that required hold‑downs and straps are installed.
Look for missing, corroded, or improperly installed fasteners and document loose plates or overdriven nails.
Verify anchor bolt spacing and location at sill plates and photograph washers, nuts, and any loose connections.
Examine visible post‑tension tendon terminations for proper grouting and consistent placement in line with design requirements.

When issues must be fixed before drywall

Repair any undersized or missing headers before drywall. They carry loads and will cause sag or cracking if left uncorrected.

Correct missing hold‑downs, misaligned shear panels, or inadequate nailing. These elements resist lateral forces and affect safety.

Anchor bolts that are missing or improperly located need correction before wall closure. Proper sill plate anchorage keeps the structure tied to the foundation.

Post‑tension terminations that show missing grout or damage must be addressed now. Follow industry guidance for tendon terminations to avoid future slab issues. See the post‑tension inspection guidance from Palo Alto residential guidelines.

For anchor bolt placement and sill attachment best practice, consult practical pre‑drywall checks like those shown by homeinspectionsinohio.com.

In Texas, site and foundation behavior matters. Our field experience and local guidance on heat and expansive clay help focus where to look. Read more about local foundation risks at Texas heat and foundation risks.

Tight detail of framing and foundation issues: an undersized header with a visible gap, a sill plate with a missing anchor bolt hole, a misaligned shear panel with sparse nailing, and a nearby post-tension tendon termination showing surface damage — lit to emphasize texture and the fixable nature of these defects while walls are open.

MEP rough‑in checks to fix while walls are open

Want to avoid costly, hidden fixes after drywall goes up? Now is the time to verify every plumbing, electrical, and HVAC route while it's still accessible. We focus on performance, code red flags, and simple corrections you can still make without opening walls later.

Plumbing checks that must pass now

Confirm supply routing, penetrations, and protection before insulation and drywall hide issues. Look for proper supports, shield plates where pipes are near stud edges, and sleeves through concrete to prevent damage.

Pressure‑test supply lines and hold the gauge for the full period to show no leaks. According to the Plumbing Rough‑In Checklist, the common practice is about 50 psi for 15 minutes.
Check horizontal drain slope. Horizontal drains 3 inches or smaller generally need at least 1/4 inch per foot of fall.
Verify vents rise and connect correctly, and that penetrations through fire assemblies have approved firestopping where required.
Ensure water lines in cold locations are insulated and protected from physical damage with steel plates or sleeves.

Electrical items to correct before concealment

Check box locations, cable routing, and grounding now. These items are far harder to fix after drywall.

Confirm electrical box placement and spacing matches the plans and outlet spacing rules so no point on a wall is unreachable.
Make sure cables are supported at code intervals and secured within 12 inches of boxes, and that cables running parallel to studs are set back or protected by plates.
Verify grounding and bonding, panel clearances, and provision for required GFCI and AFCI protection at appropriate locations.
Look for open splices, double‑tapped breakers, or loose neutral connections and document them for immediate correction.

HVAC routing and combustion safety to verify

Ducts, condensate lines, and gas appliance vents must be right now. Mistakes here lead to poor comfort, water damage, or safety risks.

Confirm ducts are correctly sized, routed, supported, and sealed at joints so airflow matches the design.
Check condensate drains for consistent downhill slope and insulation where needed to prevent standing water or freezing.
Verify equipment clearances for service access and outdoor unit spacing to preserve performance and life span.
For gas appliances, confirm adequate combustion air and correct vent routing now. Combustion air or venting errors are safety issues that must be fixed before drywall.

Fix these MEP defects now while access is easy. We document tests and photos so builders and warranty reps can act quickly and clearly.

For more on inspecting hidden systems, see our guide on the components behind the walls at From foundation to roof: the hidden systems that keep your home safe.

Linear view down an open stud bay corridor packed with MEP rough-ins: shield plates where pipes pass studs, sleeves through concrete, a condensate line with a clear slope, sealed duct connections and strapped gas piping — composed to show code‑critical routing and protections that should be corrected before insulation and drywall hide them.

Lock down moisture and life‑safety issues before walls close

Worried a big problem will be hidden once drywall goes up? Now is the moment to verify the building envelope and passive fire systems.

Start with moisture protection. Inspect roof underlayment, drip edges, and flashing at valleys and penetrations to be sure water is directed away. Check that house wrap and WRB are integrated into window and door rough openings and that sill pans are sloped and sealed. For practical guidance on flashing and window prep, see Recognizing Flashing Issues.

Fireblocking, firestopping, and code‑match checks

Inspect fireblocking in concealed spaces, at top and bottom of walls, and at long stud bays. Use approved materials such as gypsum, mineral wool, or solid lumber so vertical fire spread is resisted.

Review penetrations through fire‑rated assemblies and confirm tested firestop systems are installed to maintain the rating. For firestop requirements and tested systems, consult the firestop inspection guidance at the Firestop Resource Center. See Firestop inspection guidelines.

What must be fixed now vs what can wait

Fix active plumbing leaks and failed pressure tests now because they will rot framing and invite mold.
Correct missing or improper fireblocking and unsealed fire‑rated penetrations to preserve life‑safety and code compliance.
Repair broken trusses, undersized or missing headers, and major framing errors before drywall hides structural problems.
Secure or reroute unsecured electrical, and replace missing or damaged electrical boxes now to avoid fire hazards.
Address improperly installed roof underlayment, missing flashing, or poorly formed sill pans now to prevent future leaks.

Minor cosmetic framing imperfections that do not affect load paths can usually be deferred until after drywall.
Incomplete insulation prep notes are often fixable later, provided air‑barrier laps and penetrations are documented now.
Noncritical finish locations and trim alignment can wait if they do not conceal safety or moisture defects.

Documenting defects to protect warranty and enforcement rights

Get a photo‑backed pre‑drywall report that ties each defect to the plan and room orientation. Keep all builder communications in writing and request a written repair timeline so you have proof of notice and action.

Reference local inspector scope and codes such as the TREC Standards and the adopted IRC/NEC in your report. That makes conversations with warranty reps and municipal inspectors clearer.

Schedule a near‑expiration warranty inspection at about month 11 and keep repair records and photos for claims. Our guide on one‑year warranty inspections explains timing and how pre‑drywall documentation helps enforcement. One‑year warranty inspection: use it before you lose it

Protect warranty rights and long‑term value

Want to avoid costly problems hidden behind drywall? Focus on high‑value checks now: framing and anchors, post‑tension terminations, moisture protection and flashing, fireblocking, and MEP rough‑ins. Document each finding with photos tied to the blueprint. Remediate life‑safety or structural defects immediately, because those repairs get far harder once walls are closed.

We recommend a TREC‑standards phased inspection in the DFW area to lock in warranty protection and preserve long‑term home value. Early detection saves time and money and makes repairs straightforward. Keep written communication and a photo‑backed report for builder accountability and future warranty claims. For timing and how pre‑drywall documentation helps enforcement, see our guide on one‑year warranty inspections: One‑year warranty inspection: use it before you lose it.

Warranty Inspections for Your Peace of Mind

Make the most of your warranty before it expires